Max's Miscellaneous Musings

It's been a while since I've written a Max's Guide To Cycling For N00bs.  I've been a little unmotivated.  But all that has changed, because the seasons, they are-a changin'.  But frankly, not fast enough for me.  In short, IT'S COLD!  I'm cold!  Riding in the cold sucks!

With that in mind, it seems that I need to write a MGTCFN with a winter theme.  How do we survive the cold?  How do we get out there and ride when it's below whatever your "cold" threshold might happen to be?  The reality is that my definition of cold, and your definition of cold will always differ.  Even if we live in the same place!  Some people feel the cold more than others.

The first (and obvious) answer is to wear warm clothes.  But on a bicycle, clothing choices make a difference.  You want clothing that is lightweight, doesn't drag in the wind, allows your body to move comfortably, and doesn't impede your ability to control the bike itself.  You want clothing that can easily and quickly be removed when you do eventually warm up.  You want clothing that breathes, so that your perspiration doesn't catch in the clothing and make you cold.  In short, you want bicycle-specific clothing.  Don't fall into the trap of wearing heavy winter clothing, unless you want to look like this guy:

So let's start with the basics.  Some people don't feel the cold.  For those people, their winter wardrobe differs from their summer wardrobe purely in aesthetics.  They're happy to wear a short-sleeved jersey and nicks.  These people are freaks and should be culled from the herd at the earliest opportunity.  Do not mate with one of these people.  Do we really want a generation of freaks who can't feel the cold?  Oh wait, hang on.. hmm.

Anyway.  For the rest of us, we need to start covering up the exposed body parts.  The consensus within the cycling community is that a layered approach is best.  Several thin layers are better than a single thick layer.  This allows the rider to adjust their clothing in response to changing conditions.

Base Layers

"Base layer" is a fancy word for "undergarment".  It's something you wear underneath everything else in an effort to keep your core warm.  The choice to wear a base layer is obviously a personal one.  In warmer climates, a base layer in winter is not necessary.  In cooler/cold/arctic climates, it's a good idea.  A good base layer is thin, light, made of breathable material, and sits close to the skin.  Look for words like "thermal", "lightwave", "heatwave","merino", and "breathable".  I bought one of these from Ground Effect just recently, and it's made the world of difference.

Doesn't look like much, does it?  But that thin Merino undershirt keeps me warm without overheating.  I've never felt so comfortable on a cold morning's ride.

Base layers are also available for the lower body:

In cold conditions, base layers make the world of difference.

Arm and leg warmers

I'm going to assume that you already have a summer riding wardrobe, and that you're looking to augment it for winter riding.  So the following assumes you're wearing a summer jersey and nicks.

You'll want to cover the exposed parts of your body.  A good start is arm warmers:

Arm warmers come in many designs, and you don't have to stick to basic black if that's not your thing.  Perhaps you'd like to show off some tattoos, without the pain, effort and expense (not to mention permanence) of actually getting a tattoo?

Or you'd like to support your favourite charity?

Whatever your fashion predilections, there's plenty of arm warmer designs out there.  But really, the number one priority in arm warmer selection should be warmth.  There's no use looking pretty if you're sitting on the side of the road, unable to ride your bike because your arms have frozen off.

When shopping for arm warmers, look at the description of the material.  Lycra arm warmers are good for sun protection and a little basic wind protection, but that's about it.  They won't keep you warm in the depths of winter.  Look for warmers made out of "Roubaix" or "Super Roubaix".  These have a somewhat fleecy inner that is quite thin yet still keeps you warm.  Anything with "thermal" in the description will also keep you toasty.  Arm warmers should fit snugly without being overly tight.  Look for warmers that have decent grippers.  These will prevent the warmers from slipping down and exposing your upper arms to the cold.  If you ride in low-light conditions, make a point of selecting arm warmers that have reflective piping on them.  I personally like to wear my arm warmers so that they go over the sleeve of a short-sleeve jersey.  This ensures a good seal between the two and prevents wind from going up the jersey sleeve.

I can already hear people asking the inevitable question:  Why arm warmers?  Why not just wear a long-sleeved jersey?  For most of us, the act of riding will, in fact, raise our body temperature.  We'll start feeling warm.. dare I say it, even hot.  Arm warmers can be rolled down, or removed entirely.  They give you flexibility.  Too warm?  Roll them down.  Still too warm?  Take them off altogether, and stash them in a jersey pocket or your backpack or panniers.

What's that?  Even with arm warmers, you're still too cold?  Fine, let's talk about long-sleeved jerseys and jackets.

Long-sleeved jerseys

Long-sleeved jerseys come in the same lightweight material as short-sleeved summer jerseys.  They also come in thermal varieties.  Your choice will depend on just how cold you are.  Long-sleeved jerseys made of summer material won't give you much more protection than, well, a summer jersey.  The cuffs are generally not tapered or elasticised, so you will get wind up the sleeves.  And, when you do finally warm up, you won't get much joy from rolling the sleeves up, because they'll fall down, or bunch up uncomfortably.  That said, a long-sleeved jersey might be the perfect fit for you if you ride in a cool (not cold) climate that doesn't warm up during the day.

Long-sleeved winter  jerseys are made of material that's actually designed to keep you warm.  Look for words like "Roubaix", "Micro-fleece", "Wind foil", "Merino" and "thermal".

Note the elasticised cuffs, the tall collar (to keep your neck warm), the long zipper, and the fleecy material.  Look for jerseys that are longer at the back than at the front.  This will prevent the jersey from riding up and exposing your lower back (not to mention plumber butt) to the cold.  Some winter jerseys have thumb loops at the bottom of the sleeves.  This helps keep the sleeve down around your wrist.

A short-sleeve jersey plus arm warmers will give a good middle ground between a long-sleeve summer jersey, and a long-sleeve winter jersey.

For some of us, the winter cold is made worse by windchill.  Either the wind is blowing all on its own (thanks, Mother Nature!!!) or you're riding at a quick enough clip to generate windchill.  I know there are times I've been on a ride where the biggest challenge has been dealing with cold wind.  It can feel like it's cutting right through you.  Jerseys and undershirts do come in windproof varieties, and if you live in a windy area, it's definitely worth the investment.  But sometimes that wind is actually welcome - like when you've worked up a sweat and you need to cool down.  So where's the middle ground?

Jackets and vests

There is a whole plethora of jackets and vests out there.  Some are designed for light rainfall/spitting.  Some are designed to protect against wind by adding a windproof layer at the front.  Some are designed to survive torrential rainfall.  You need to find something that is fit for your purpose.  There is no point buying a rain jacket if your challenge is just a bit of wind.  Similarly, a spray jacket won't be any good to you if you're dealing with a monsoon.  Because we're using a layered approach, let's limit this discussion to vests and light spray jackets.

Vests are great because they cover your chest, they're light, and they're great windbreaks.  Given the choice, I'll wear a vest instead of a jacket any day.  Vests typically offer protection from the wind at the front of the garment, whilst having a mesh or lighter weight material at the back.  This allows heat to dissipate.  Look for a vest that has a full zip, an elasticised waist and a tall collar, as well as a zipped pocket or storage area.  Many vests also offer some protection from rain, but bear in mind that a mesh-backed vest will be of limited use in this regard.  Cheaper vests will be heavy and bulky, and won't be especially breathable.  More expensive vests will be made of very lightweight material that allows heat to dissipate.  Lightweight vests can also be removed and folded up for stowage inside a jersey pocket.

Vests come in many colours and styles.  I have a personal preference for hi-viz vests, because the vast majority of my "cold" riding also happens to be "dark" riding.

Jackets

If you're doing it tough even with the base layer, summer jersey, arm warmers and vest, it might be time to move to a jacket.  As I mentioned before, some jackets are designed to cope with heavy rainfall.

These jackets are designed to keep water out, whilst also letting your perspiration escape.  Look for something with a hood (removable is nice), elasticised cuffs, storm flap over the zipper, thumb loops and a long back.  Some jackets also have vents under the armpits to allow windflow in to cool you.  This is a good thing, because unless you live in the arctic, you are going to get hot in one of these.  Airflow is good!

Some jackets are designed to act as windbreakers, with a little water resistance.  These are good for cold, dry climates.  They are generally made of lighter material than rain jackets, and often convert into vests by having removable sleeves:

Again, the cheaper the jacket, the less ventilation you'll get.  Pooling of perspiration within a cheap jacket is very unpleasant and can make you much colder than if you hadn't worn the jacket at all.

Phew.

Are you still with me?  It's been a loooooong read, but I hope you're still there.  Let's move on to the lower body.

Leg warmers

Much of the advice about arm warmers also applies to leg warmers.  Good leg warmers will have zippers at the bottom of the leg to allow for easy removal.  They'll have decent grippers at the top to prevent them from falling.  And they'll have reflective piping.  Wear leg warmers under the leg of your nicks.  When shopping for leg warmers, look for the words "Roubaix", "Windstop", "thermal" and the like.

If summer nicks are too cold to protect your upper legs and groin, consider wearing a base layer underneath, or possibly a second pair of nicks.  If you find that you never remove your leg warmers on cold rides, you might consider simply getting long nicks.

Again, look for something made of Roubaix material, thermal material and something that's windproof.  Make sure they have long zips at the back to make it easy to put them on and take them off.  And don't forget the reflective piping.

Head/face protection

If you're like me, you're a weenie who hates the cold.  Even fully layered up, I'll get cold if I'm not wearing something to protect my head, face and ears from the wind.  For those of you living in very cold environments, a balaclava could be the solution:

Bear in mind that a thick balaclava will also prevent heat from escaping through your helmet's vents.  This can be a double-edged sword.  If you live in the arctic, it'll be welcome.  But if you don't, you'll find yourself overheating despite the cold conditions.

I'm a big fan of neck rolls, or Buffs:

Yes, it's just a giant tube of fabric, but it's very versatile.  You can wear it as a neck roll, a face mask, a balaclava.. whatever.  I like it because it can be worn as a "topless" balaclava, allowing my head to breathe:

Hands and feet

Finally, let us not forget the extremities.

Long-fingered gloves are an obvious choice when dealing with the cold.  For cool climates, it is sufficient to have a thin glove with full fingers (as opposed to cut-off mitts).  Eliminating the windchill is all these gloves need to do:

You might sometimes see these described as "summer" gloves.  The term "summer" should be interpreted to mean "thin".  I find that a summer glove is good down to about 12 degrees C.  Below that, and I move to a heavier glove, something with wind-resistant material, and maybe some fleece lining.  If you're lucky, they'll offer rain protection as well:

When shopping for winter gloves, fit is important.  You need to be able to operate your bike's gears and brakes without the glove interfering with your movement.  That means your fingers need to reach the end of the glove's fingers.  Look for a glove that has a reinforced palm and grippy material on the thumb and first two fingers.  This will allow you to use the bike's gears and brakes without impediment.  Also look for an elasticised cuff that covers your wrist.  This will act as a seal to prevent the cold from getting in.

Some people wear an additional liner glove.  This works really well in cold climates.  I've also seen people wear latex gloves (the sort a doctor or CSI tech might use) to offer additional protection in rainy conditions.

Finally, let's talk about protecting your feet.  If your shoes have any sort of ventilation, you'll find that this lets cold air in.  Riding with cold feet can be very uncomfortable, and can turn an otherwise pleasant ride into an endurance event.

The first step is to find some decent socks.  I like thin cotton athletic socks, as these allow my feet to breathe.  Some people prefer thermal socks, or thick woolen socks.  There are cycle-specific socks out there, but my personal opinion is that there is not much difference between these and regular socks.  Except, perhaps, the price tag.  Wear whatever works for you.

On cold, windy or rainy days, I wear bootees, or overshoes.  These shoe covers slip over the shoe, and have a zip at the back:

I actually own a set of the ones shown above.  The outer is a water-resistant synthetic, and the inner is thinly lined with a fleece material.  I've worn these in torrential rain, and they were good for about three hours before they finally gave up and let water in.  When shopping for shoe covers, look for a long zipper at the back, velcro under the sole, heat-sealed seams, and reflective material on the back and sides.  Bootees come in all sorts of materials.  Some are lycra (mostly decorative, little protection), some are like the Sugoi bootee above, some are made of neoprene for hard-core rain and/or cold.

If it's just your toes that are cold, perhaps toe covers are a better option:

If the weather is just too cold for either of these, consider a winter-specific shoe:

So now you're decked out from head to toe, the only thing left to do is go out and ride!  You just better hope your bike doesn't look like this when you head off: